Back to the Coast


I packed my gear the night before and undetected, escaped from the old age home in the early hours of the morning, and headed for North Beach where I met the team. 

Not quite true but almost. I was so pumped to go back to the coast, a movie I’ve neglected for far too long. Arriving at the break, and seeing the lump from the fullish tide, I remembered the perfectly groomed waves at Kelly’s Surf Ranch all over the net the night before.

This was the antithisis. A shifting line up, not quite connecting but offering a deep barrel for those on the take. Just what you’d expect in early May on the coast. 

The crew, Jason and James Ribbink and Chad Dutoit  joined the now deeply planted Slade Prestwich, evergreen wave magnet and mayoral charger Gavin Roberts and Mikey Venter, the behind the curtain man. Nicole Pallet sat deep and snagged some bombs. 

As you would expect by midday the wind had switched to the north and we made our way back to town anticipating an evening watching WSL pool action. Well when I got back to the old age home (sic), I just didn’t have the where-with-all to watch the whole thing. I took in a few waves with one eye and blissfully went to sleep with the rosy memories of a day well spent on the coast. 

You don’t have to go far to be rewarded.

“I quit searching for the rainbow,

I forgot where I belong.” 

Marty Grebb and Daniel Moore