2018 beckons and each new year, few and fewer of us are around to record some kind of documented history of South African Surfing.
I’m busy reading ‘No Direction Home’ – Robert Shelton’s meticulously documented biography of Bob Dylan. The depth of research is astonishing, the attention to detail beyond the reaches of lesser and mere mortal writers.
Reading that book was a reality sandwich for me. My short stories and even shorter posts do little justice to a big and epic history of our sport in this country and the only way to keep it legit is to make it a collective effort.
I lost a big opportunity by not engaging sufficiently with Max Wetteland before he passed. We spoke often but never enough. I would hate that to happen again. With the loss of each icon, as he was, the story dims. Besides the distant history, a great number of more recent stories need to be revealed. Which requires, interviews with and the words of, more contemporary surfers, writers and pundits.
I’m not sure of what format, what medium or how this could be funded, but all I know is that some of us need to shelve our reluctance, move aside the barriers and get it done.
The clock is ticking. I mean would you like a writer, who didn’t actually experience what went down in the last 50 or so years along the southern shores of Africa to write the book?